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The city of Agra, long synonymous with the Taj Mahal, now faces a mounting environmental threat from the booming footwear industry. The city, which caters to around 65 per cent of India’s footwear demand, generates around 45 tonnes of footwear waste each day, a recent study by the Centre for Science and Environment (CSE) revealed.
The waste issue is becoming a serious concern, adding to the city's already existing waste management problems and polluting the environment.
The CSE’s research, conducted over a year and presented at a multistakeholder workshop held in Agra, highlighted a troubling scenario: Out of the 45 tonnes of footwear waste generated daily, more than 13 tonnes come from informal home-based businesses, while the formal manufacturing sector produces over 31 tonnes.
Despite the Agra Municipal Corporation (AMC) collecting about 57 per cent of the footwear waste generated from informal entities, the rest -- nearly 6 tonnes per day -- still end up discarded in drains, open spaces or burnt, creating a significant environmental hazard.
Agra’s identity as a major footwear production hub dates back centuries. Today, the city has 6,821 footwear manufacturing units, producing between 900,000 to a million pairs of shoes daily. This massive production scale comes with a price.
Atin Biswas, programme director, CSE’s Solid Waste Management and Circular Economy unit, noted, "Agra's footwear industry is not just an economic engine but also a source of considerable waste. If left unchecked, this waste poses severe environmental and public health risks."
The report identified a stark difference in waste management practices between formal and informal sectors.
The informal sector — comprising around 6,121 home-based businesses — generates significant waste without adequate disposal or recycling methods.
Waste from these informal units includes leather, synthetic polymers, textiles, and hazardous materials like foam soaked in adhesives, explained Kuldeep Choudhary, programme officer and lead author of the study.
The report highlighted that of the 13.71 tonnes of waste produced by the informal sector daily, only about 7.8 tonnes are collected by AMC. The rest — nearly 6 tonnes — are improperly discarded, exacerbating pollution problems.
The burning of this waste, particularly in the winter months, is common, releasing toxic fumes into the air and posing severe health risks to local residents. The practice of dumping waste in drains also leads to blockages, causing flooding and contaminating water bodies.
To address these challenges, the CSE report outlined several key recommendations. One of the most pressing needs is for the AMC to create a comprehensive database of all footwear manufacturing units, including those that are informal.
By geotagging and regularly updating this inventory, the city can more effectively monitor and manage waste disposal practices. The report also called for amendments to Agra’s municipal bylaws to explicitly address footwear waste management, including stringent penalties for non-compliance.
Furthermore, the report emphasises the need for targeted interventions in the informal sector. "The larger share of Agra's footwear industry is informal in nature and operates under challenging conditions, but this presents a unique opportunity to uplift these communities," said Choudhary.
Current status of footwear waste management
The report recommended providing financial aid and technical support to help informal businesses transition to more sustainable practices, such as mechanisation and recycling.
An integrated waste collection system is another critical recommendation. CSE suggested that AMC should deploy a dedicated fleet of vehicles and staff for regular collection, especially from the informal sector. This approach would help prevent waste from being dumped in public areas or burned.
The study also highlighted the potential for recycling and upcycling footwear waste, transforming what is currently a liability into an economic opportunity. For instance, leather scraps and other materials can be reused to create small products such as keychains or doormats.
By supporting local upcycling projects through self-help groups and small businesses, Agra could not only reduce its waste but also create new sources of income.
More research is needed to explore the recycling-reuse-repurpose potential of the footwear waste fractions to create a business ecosystem, the expert added.
The consequences of failing to manage this waste effectively extend beyond environmental pollution; they also pose significant economic risks. Agra is a major tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors each year. Poor waste management not only affects the city’s aesthetics but also risks damaging its reputation, which could have long-term economic implications.
Puran Dawar, president of the Agra Footwear Manufacturing Export Chambers, underscored the need for better waste segregation and management practices. "It is critical to understand the current methods of segregation and design a collection system with support from the Agra Municipal Corporation. The cost of collection can be recovered by imposing applicable fees to footwear manufacturing units in Agra," he said.
The report emphasised that a sustainable waste management system must operate under the ‘polluter pays’ principle, holding both large and small manufacturers accountable for the waste they generate. This model is similar to the Extended Producer Responsibility policy used for managing plastic waste, where producers are responsible for the entire lifecycle of their products, including disposal.
"The footwear manufacturing sector must be prepared to take on its share of responsibility to help the Agra Municipal Corporation in collection, transportation, and scientific management of the pre-consumer waste for a sustainable ecosystem," said Siddharth G Singh, programme manager, Solid Waste Management and Circular Economy, CSE.
With coordinated efforts, Agra can balance its economic aspirations with the need to protect its environment and public health, ensuring a cleaner and more sustainable future for the city.