On a quiet Saturday evening, Alex Mumo sits outside his modest home, reflecting on his 17-year journey in Tanzania’s financial hub. Arriving in Dar es Salaam in 2007 with nothing but hope, he now lives with his wife, two daughters, and runs a street kitchen in the sprawling Tandale slum, frying potato chips and eggs. His monthly income of Tanzanian shillings 250,000 (approximately Rs 8,344) reflects the harsh realities of urban life.
“When I first came here, I had nothing but the clothes on my back,” Mumo says. “This city has given me opportunities I never imagined.”
Despite facing numerous challenges, including squatting in a friend's room, Mumo did not give up. “Life was too tough then,” he recalls. “For many years, I slept on a bare floor with hardly enough space to stretch out.”
Mumo’s story highlights the rising wave of rural-urban migration sweeping across Africa. Rapid urbanisation in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania’s largest city with a population of 6 million, is a beacon of hope for many and a battleground of infrastructural and environmental challenges. The city’s population, expected to double by 2035, calls for urgent sustainable urban planning.
Dar es Salaam, once a modest coastal town, is now a sprawling metropolis struggling with rapid urban sprawl and a surging population driven by rural-to-urban migration. This influx, analysts say, has strained infrastructure, leading to congested roads, overcrowded public transport, and an overburdened healthcare system. Housing shortages have resulted in informal settlements lacking basic amenities like clean water and sanitation.
Perched on the Indian Ocean coastline, Dar es Salaam is highly vulnerable to climate change, including rising sea levels and flooding. Mumo recalls a tense moment in May 2023 when his home was engulfed by floods, forcing his family to take refuge on a rooftop.
“Most of my belongings, including food, clothing and a radio set, had been destroyed by the floodwater,” he says.
In Dar es Salaam, 70 per cent of inhabitants live in informal settlements like Tandale—a vast, labyrinthine neighbourhood of flimsily built concrete houses. Children play hide-and-seek near open sewers, and annual flooding triggers outbreaks of diarrhoeal diseases, including cholera.
More than half of the world’s population now lives in cities, with this figure projected to rise to 66 per cent by 2050, according to the United Nations. Most of this urban growth will occur in Africa and Asia, with these regions accounting for about 90 per cent of the increase.
While rapid urbanisation can generate wealth and reduce poverty, it also brings significant challenges. Analysts point to cities like Dar es Salaam, which faces severe issues due to its rapid expansion. Contributing around 40 per cent of Tanzania’s GDP, Dar es Salaam is set to become a megacity by 2040. However, it is highly vulnerable to climate change risks such as flooding, sea-level rise, and coastal erosion, threatening infrastructure assets worth billions of dollars, according to the United Nations.
As the population living in slums increases, Dar es Salaam exemplifies the difficulties of managing urbanisation, natural disasters, and poverty. Experts from ICLEI, a network of over a thousand cities focused on sustainable development and resilience, highlight the city’s growing challenges. Local residents bear the heaviest burden due to logistical and infrastructural challenges.
James Mwenda, a resident of Kigogo, faces a serious health challenge for his family due to perpetual wastewater flow from a broken sewer. “I am worried for my children. They often step on this dirty water while playing,” he says. Mwenda, a father of four, routinely dumps seeping sludge from his toilet into the Msimbazi river. “We don’t have other choices; this is the best way to dispose of it,” he says. Officials state that most residents in this squalid slum lack access to better sanitation.
Until recently, much of Africa’s urbanisation has been characterised by insufficient infrastructure, a lack of formal jobs, and haphazardly built and often squalid slums. Lack of planning, weak regulations, and the difficulty of obtaining title deeds for land cause cities to grow out rather than up, making them more vulnerable to natural disasters, analysts say.
Ally Nyamangana, professor of urban development at Tanzainia-based Ardhi University, explains the importance of sustainable development amidst rapid growth: “We need to rethink how we build our cities. It’s about managing growth while enhancing resilience to climate change.” He notes that the city’s rapid, unplanned expansion has led to severe congestion and infrastructural strain. “Our roads are not designed to handle the volume of traffic we are experiencing,” says Nyamangaya. “The daily gridlock poses serious economic repercussions due to lost productivity and increased transportation costs.”
To address rapid urban sprawl, city authorities have redrawn a master plan for Dar es Salaam. The plan includes establishing a Metropolitan Development Authority to oversee planning and infrastructure, including transportation and utilities.
Omar Kumbilamoto, the Mayor of Dar es Salaam, emphasises the need for strategic planning to manage growth and enhance climate resilience.
“We must plan meticulously to foster growth while ensuring our city can absorb the challenges posed by flooding and rising population,” he says.
Initiatives like the Resilience Academy’s AI-powered tree mapping project offer innovative solutions to combat deforestation and improve urban green spaces. The government is also working on identifying flood-prone areas and implementing early warning systems to enhance disaster preparedness and recovery.
However, enforcing land use policies in a city dominated by informal settlements remains a significant challenge. Silvia Macchi, an urban planning associate professor at Sapienza University in Italy, notes, “Rapid population growth and poor urban planning are the most significant challenges that Dar es Salaam faces. Climate-proofing interventions should be carefully assessed to avoid increasing unbalanced living conditions between different areas.”
In 2016, Dar es Salaam launched its first bus rapid transit (BRT) system, easing traffic congestion and spurring economic growth along its routes. “The BRT has been a game-changer for me,” says commuter Fatima Saidi. “I used to spend hours stuck in traffic, but now I get to work much faster.” Despite its success, the BRT faces challenges like limited coverage and lack of funding. Observers still see it as a crucial step toward a sustainable urban transport system.
China has played a significant role in Dar es Salaam’s modernisation. Chinese companies have spearheaded key projects like the construction of the Kigamboni Bridge, roads, and the port expansion, bringing in vital investment and expertise. However, these projects have sparked debates about sustainability and long-term benefits for local communities. One notable project is the Kawe 701, a mixed-use development promising modern housing, offices, and retail spaces. Progress has been slow, and the project has faced criticism for focusing on luxury developments over affordable housing. “We need development that benefits everyone, not just the wealthy,” says Namangaya. “These projects should include affordable housing and improve living conditions for all residents, not just a select few.”
“The BRT has revolutionised mobility, but it’s just one piece of the puzzle. We need comprehensive planning to ensure sustainable development,” says Namangaya.
As it hurtles toward megacity status, experts say Dar es Salaam is at a critical juncture. Decisions made now, from grassroots initiatives to high-level government policies, will shape its future for generations. “When people come to Dar es Salaam, they look for land and just start building,” says Namangaya.
Despite these setbacks, observers say Dar es Salaam has made considerable progress. Over the last decade, blue-tinged glass towers have transformed its downtown skyline. Excluding South Africa, Dar es Salaam is now home to four of the 10 tallest buildings in sub-Saharan Africa. Investments driven by rising property values and the upgrading of some informal settlements have helped revitalise some of its poorest neighbourhoods.
While much of the city lacks proper roads and sewers, it teems with life. As millions more flock to Dar es Salaam, the challenge is to provide economic opportunities and plan a more efficient, connected, and dense metropolitan area. Major investments in housing are essential—the National Housing Corporation says Tanzania faces an urban deficit that grows by 200,000 units a year, many of them in Dar es Salaam. Expanding mass transit and creating new hubs like Kigamboni Satellite City will diversify commutes and reduce stress on the city centre.
Dar’s future hinges on inclusive urban planning, community engagement, and international partnerships that prioritise resilience and equity.
Despite its challenges, there is optimism about the city’s future. “This city has its challenges, but it also has endless possibilities. We just need to work hard to succeed,” says resident Mumo.