India’s growing microplastic crisis spreads from skin to sea: Microbeads are hidden dangers in your self care products

An invisible yet significant pollutant enters the environment each time we cleanse or exfoliate using products containing colourful or gritty particles. These tiny plastic pollutants, commonly referred to as “microbeads” in the cosmetic and personal care industry, are often smaller than a pencil nib and barely visible to the naked eye. 

Ranging from irregular shapes to perfectly round pearls, microbeads were introduced into personal care products in the early 1990s for various purposes such as aesthetics, exfoliation and carrying active ingredients. Their popularity grew due to their versatility, durability, affordability and non-reactive properties.

These intentionally added microplastics received widespread attention only after studies and non-governmental organisation (NGO) campaigns, such as the Dutch NGO Plastic Soup Foundation’s “Beat the Microbead.” The United States led the charge with the Microbead-Free Waters Act in 2015, followed by similar actions from other countries.

Besides being made of plastic, these microbeads often contain other chemicals or colourants, depending on their intended function. Once washed down the drain, they largely bypass wastewater treatment facilities and enter the environment. Worse still, these microbeads can carry other harmful chemicals and heavy metals, magnifying their ecological and health risks. 

Research into the effects of microbeads continues, but studies suggest they can cause hormonal imbalances, growth retardation, endocrine disruption and gut blockage when ingested by wildlife. Additionally, they can accumulate in the food chain, leading to “biomagnification”.

In India, the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) flagged polyethylene as an unsafe raw material in cosmetics in a 2017 study, but other regulations remain scarce. This is despite frequent amendments to plastic waste management rules and the enactment of a single-use plastic ban in 2022.

This author contributed to a study that examined 45 Indian personal care products — 18 face washes, five body scrubs, 12 face scrubs and 10 shower gels — the majority of which were manufactured in 2022. The selection criteria were ambiguous ingredient lists, environmental claims, affordability and availability. 

The study revealed that, on average, 1.34 per cent of these products contained microbeads, with face scrubs containing the highest quantity and face washes the lowest. Shower gels were found to contain the largest microbeads, while face washes had the smallest. These tiny particles, with sizes as small as 195 micrometres, can easily slip through wastewater treatment facilities, which only cover 23.8 per cent of India and end up in the environment.

The majority of microbeads were irregular and granular in shape, particularly in scrubs, for effective exfoliation. Spherical and colourful microbeads were commonly found in facewashes, where they served an aesthetic purpose. 

Microbeads were predominantly white or transparent, though other colours like blue, green, red, pink and yellow were also present. Their small size and varied shapes and colours make them a significant threat, as they can easily be ingested by organisms or absorb other contaminants, increasing their harmful effects.

The microbeads in this study were small in size, shape and colour, implying that they could easily enter the environment and be eaten by organisms, either because they lack colour or because their colour is appealing. Their small size also increases the risk, as they have a larger surface area that can attract other pollutants, acting as carriers of these contaminants.

In 45 per cent  of the analysed products, plastic was found, while 23 per cent  contained chemically modified natural polymers like cellulose. Polyethylene was the most common plastic polymer (66 per cent), followed by polycaprolactone, polyurethane, polypropylene and polystyrene. Additional substances such as titanium dioxide, varnish and phthalo blue were also identified.  

These chemicals pose their own risks, with titanium dioxide known for absorbing heavy metals and varnish potentially causing contact dermatitis.

The study also noted brands with both plastic and natural beads. It also highlighted extensive “greenwashing” practices, with some brands making eco-friendly claims on packaging despite containing microplastics. 

An annual emission study, based on the World Bank's population data, estimated that India released approximately 13.7 quintillion microbeads in 2021, with this figure expected to rise to 16.1 quintillion by 2030 if current usage trends continue. 

As the fifth-largest consumer of personal care products, India’s contribution to microbead pollution is substantial, driven by its growing gross domestic product, expanding cosmetics market and large population of young people in the age group 15-30.

India urgently needs dedicated regulations to address this growing threat, either by amending existing plastic waste management laws or strengthening single-use plastic rules. Transparency in product labelling and enforcement against misleading greenwashing claims are also critical. Consumers must be made aware of this small but significant threat and empowered to make informed choices. 

Strict penalties for greenwashing brands are required, as are incentives for brands to develop sustainable alternatives. 

As the world moves towards a Global Plastic Treaty and countries push to meet the United Nations’ mandated Sustainable Development Goals by 2030, it is high time for India to establish stricter regulations in its booming personal care market.

Riya K Alex is research scholar at School of Environmental Studies, Cochin University of Science and Technology

Views expressed are the author’s own and don’t necessarily reflect those of Down To Earth