The first monsoon shower does more than wash the red laterite soil from the sal forests of Chhotanagpur Plateau. It also stirs what lies beneath them. Over the next few weeks, tribal communities that have long inhabited the region head into the woods at dawn. Armed with small baskets and short digging sticks, they scan the damp, reddish sandy soil. A faint crack in the ground or a slight swelling in the leaf litter, signs most walkers would miss, is enough to make them stop. Beneath lies rugda, a wild mushroom that resembles a puffball.
Its rarity and brief season make rugda one of the monsoon's prized foods across Jharkhand and the adjoining parts of Odisha, West Bengal, Chhattisgarh and Bihar that lie on the Chhotanagpur Plateau. In some places, it fetches higher prices than meat. Its firm, chewy texture has earned it the nickname "vegetarian mutton". In Jharkhand, a kilogramme of rugda costs between Rs 500 and Rs 3,000, depending on the month and location of harvest. The high prices make rugda an important non-timber forest produce, providing seasonal income for many tribal households in forested villages. The knowledge needed to find rugda rests largely with women and is passed down over generations on repeated walks through the forest with mothers, grandmothers and older women in the community. But inheritance alone is not enough.
With the first monsoon rains, the forest floor also produces poisonous and hallucinogenic mushrooms, often referred to as pagla khukhri (literally, “mad mushroom”). Some closely resemble edible species. Collectors therefore rely on a host of subtle clues—the colour, texture and smell of the mushroom, the species of host tree and even the feel of the surrounding soil—to distinguish those that are safe to eat from those that are not. And the skill is honed through years of observation, experience and an intimate understanding of the forest.
As per this traditional ecological knowledge, local communities had long regarded rugda as nutritious, filling and dependable, particularly during the lean weeks of the monsoon. Known locally by names such as futka, puttu and kudkudia, it has formed part of seasonal diets and is widely believed to help address anaemia and malnutrition among women and children. Rugda entered scientific literature only in the late 19th century when mycologists identified it as Astraeus hygrometricus. Scientists are still investigating its therapeutic properties. Although evidence remains limited, some studies suggest that rugda is rich in protein, minerals and antioxidants. One report, published by Odisha-based non-profit Ambika Prasad Research Foundation in the book Edible and Medicinal Mushrooms of India, in February 2024, states that spores of Astraeus hygrometricus with coconut oil are used traditionally for healing burns and wounds in Odisha. Ethanol extracts of the fruit body are high in antioxidant activity, and have been shown in laboratory tests to have anti-inflammatory activity.
Rugda also offers a glimpse into an ecological world that remains largely hidden. Forest health is often judged by what is visible above ground—commercially valuable trees, bird diversity or the presence of charismatic mammals. But the fact is, much of a forest's biological activity takes place underground. The fungal kingdom, for one, is a vast but still poorly understood branch of life that underpins many of these terrestrial ecosystems.
In central and eastern India, where sal forests form the ecological backbone of the landscape, Astraeus hygrometricus spends most of the year underground, woven around the roots of sal trees. Rugda that appears after the monsoon rains is merely its fruiting body. This ectomycorrhizal association benefits both organisms. Fine fungal threads extend through the soil, helping the tree absorb water and nutrients that would otherwise remain inaccessible in the laterite soil, characterised by high acidity and low nutrient availability. In return, the fungus receives sugars produced by the tree through photosynthesis.
That dependence helps explain why rugda has resisted cultivation. Although scientists have learned to grow many commercially valuable mushrooms, rugda relies on a living forest rather than an artificial substrate. Remove mature sal trees, disturb the soil or alter the monsoon's moisture regime, and the fungus can no longer complete its life cycle. As local collectors put it, where healthy sal forests endure, rugda returns with the rains. In recent years, they observe that this delicate relationship between the fungus, tree and soil is under strain. Across local markets, conversations about rugda are increasingly about the fact that it no longer appears in places where it once did. Some collectors blame erratic monsoons, while others point to shrinking sal forests.
Due to growing commercial demand, there are now calls for a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for rugda. Such a tag may protect a product's identity. But can it preserve the ecological conditions that make the product possible? Rugda shows that much of a forest's ecological machinery operates out of sight. Forests are sustained not only by the trees and wildlife that dominate conservation campaigns, but also by countless unseen relationships that rarely enter public debate. Equally overlooked is the knowledge of indigenous communities, particularly women, who have learnt to read these landscapes through decades of observation.
Ingredients
Rugda: 250 g
Mustard oil: 3 tbsp,
Onions (chopped): 2-3,
Ginger-garlic paste:1 tbsp
Tomato (chopped): 1
Spices (cumin, turmeric,
coriander powder, red chilli
powder, garam masala): 1/4 tsp each
Salt: to taste
Fresh coriander: to garnish
Method
Clean the rugda thoroughly to remove dirt and soil; cut it into halves. Heat mustard oil in a wok; add cumin seeds; let it splutter. Sauté the onions until golden brown. Add ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, coriander and chilli powder, and cook until the oil separates. Add tomato and salt and cook for a few minutes. Add the rugda and sauté for 5-7 minutes. Add a little water, cover, and cook on low heat until tender. Finish with garam masala and fresh coriander. Serve hot with steamed rice or roti.
(Kushagra Rajendra is head, environmental and sustainability domain, Amity University Haryana. Vineeta Parmar is a science educator, whose work engages with ecofeminism, sustainability and socio-cultural aspects of development)
This was first published in the August 16-31, 2026 Print edition of Down To Earth