Nigeria's Minister of State for Health and Social Welfare, Iziaq Salako, has expressed concern over the widespread use of skin-lightening products (SLP) in Nigeria and across Africa, despite their known health risks.
He highlighted that Nigeria is among the countries with the highest global usage of SLPs — 77 per cent of the country’s women uses skin bleaching, the World Health Organization (WHO) estimated.
The country’s recognition as the "the world capital of skin bleaching" underscores a cultural and societal preference for lighter skin tones, Salako stressed, speaking at a workshop in Gabon focused on eliminating these cosmetic products.
To address this issue, Nigeria is developing a national policy on cosmetics to ensure the safety and quality of cosmetic products. Salako emphasised that not only are women using SLPs, but men also tend to pressure women, directly or indirectly, to lighten their skin. Therefore, he stressed that public health campaigns must include men.
The global skin-lightening industry, valued at around $10 billion in 2021, has found a particularly lucrative market in Nigeria. In other African countries, the rate of women opting for skin bleaching is 25 per cent in Mali, 32 per cent in South Africa, 39 per cent in Ghana, 50 per cent in Senegal and 66 per cent in Congo-Brazzaville, according to WHO.
This trend is fueled, in part, by societal perceptions that equate lighter skin with beauty, wealth and achievement.
While several African countries, including Ghana, South Africa and Mali, have banned SLPs, the enforcement of these laws remains weak.
Products range from creams and soaps to injectable solutions, many of which are easily accessible in local markets. However, a vast majority of these products contain harmful chemicals such as hydroquinone, mercury and corticosteroids, which pose significant health risks.
The dangers associated with skin-lightening products are well-documented and are known to even cause cancer. Prolonged use of these products can lead to severe skin conditions, including thinning of the skin, discoloration and increased sensitivity to sunlight. Mercury, a common ingredient in many of these products, is a potent neurotoxin that can cause kidney damage, neurological issues and mental health problems. Hydroquinone, another widely used chemical, has been linked to ochronosis, a condition that causes bluish-black discoloration of the skin.
Moreover, corticosteroids, often included in skin-lightening creams for their anti-inflammatory properties, can lead to hormonal imbalances, stretch marks and an increased risk of infections. For pregnant women, the use of these products poses additional risks, including potential harm to the fetus.
The popularity of skin-lightening products in Nigeria cannot be divorced from the pervasive influence of colourism. Rooted in colonial history and perpetuated by global beauty standards, colourism privileges lighter skin tones while devaluing darker complexions. This bias is reinforced by media representations that predominantly feature fair-skinned models and celebrities as symbols of beauty and success.
Social media has further amplified the problem, with influencers and beauty brands promoting skin-lightening products to millions of followers. The lack of stringent regulations in the advertising of these products allows misleading claims to flourish, often overshadowing the associated health risks.
Studies and surveys confirmed Nigeria’s high prevalence of skin bleaching. The Ministry of Health’s Cosmetics Safety Management Programme (CSMP) found that 52 per cent of manufacturers incorporate skin-lightening agents into their products.
Additionally, a survey by the Nigeria Opinion Institute, public opinion polling organisation in Nigeria, revealed that 64 per cet of Nigerians believe skin bleaching is highly prevalent, with 97 per cent considering it common among Nigerian women. Awareness of skin bleaching is high, with over 76 per cent of respondents acknowledging it and nearly 40 per cent believing it enhances beauty and fashion.
An Al Jazeera report on the problem quoted a cosmetics shop owner in Lagos saying that 90 per cent of her customers come looking for SLPs.
As the market for such products booms, unregulated brands selling harmful quantities of skin bleaching agents becomes a big problem. In 2019, the government developed the Cosmetic Products (Prohibition of Bleaching Agents) Regulations, which prohibit the use of harmful skin-bleaching agents like mercury and restrict the allowable concentration of hydroquinone to 2 per cent.
Regulatory agencies such as the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control, however, struggle to curb the influx of unregulated and counterfeit products into the market. Corruption, inadequate resources and a lack of public awareness further exacerbate the problem.
Salako called for targeted public health campaigns, stricter regulatory enforcement and community-driven advocacy to combat the practice.
The federal government has been actively promoting the use of safe cosmetic products free from hazardous substances.
Through CSMP, the ministry has conducted sensitisation, training and advocacy campaigns nationwide, including at the grassroots level, to influence behavioral changes by addressing the root causes of SLP usage and promoting healthier attitudes.
Salako concluded by emphasising the need for a comprehensive approach to address the issue, including public education, policy enforcement and community engagement to shift societal perceptions and reduce the demand for skin-lightening products.
The trend is driven by deeply rooted cultural and societal norms that equate lighter skin with beauty, success and social status. For many Nigerians, achieving a fairer complexion is not just a cosmetic choice but a perceived pathway to greater opportunities in both personal and professional spheres.