In Bengal, winter isn’t just a season; it’s a bounty. While many vegetables are now available year-round, nothing quite matches the flavour of those harvested in the crisp winter air. This vibrant, nutrient-dense stew, Shaaker Jhol is a celebration of that seasonal harvest.
The festival of Poush Parbon was knocking at our door. My Didu (grandmother) and mother were immersed in the labour-intensive preparation of pithey, puli, savory kochuris and daal puris. Amidst this flurry of flour and sugar, my Dadu (grandfather), ever the connoisseur of good food, arrived home carrying a heavy bag overflowing with winter vegetables. Didu was furious! “Who has time to cook all this now? You can see how busy we are!” she exclaimed. I stepped in to rescue Dadu. “Please, Didu, make Shaaker Jhol. I’ve been craving it for so long.” The compromise was struck: I washed the vegetables and Dadu, who was a marvellous cook in his own right, diced the vegetables with precision. Soon, the fragrance of fried bori, fresh cauliflower, and a tempering of hing (asafoetida) drifted through the house, eventually overpowering even the sweet scent of the pithey.
Shaaker Jhol
Beetroot, cauliflower, radish, tomato, sweet potato, carrot, green peas, spinach and fresh coriander.
Flavour enhancers: Brinjal and pumpkin
Proteins: kolai daler bori (urad daal dumplings) 8-10
Tempering:
Bay leaf – 1
Dried red chilli – 1
Mixed spice seeds (cumin, coriander, fennel, mustard, onion seed, carom, fenugreek, coriander) – 1 tsp
Hing powder: 1/2 tsp
Oil (preferably mustard) as required
Spice paste/powder:
Turmeric – 1/2 tsp
Cumin – 1/2 tsp
Coriander – 1 tsp
Ginger (paste/grated) – 1 tbsp
Green chillies (optional) – 2
Salt and sugar to taste
Ghee – 1 tsp
Chopped coriander leaves for garnishing.
Note: In Bengali culture, making bori begins during the auspicious month of Agrahayan (Nov-Dec) known as Bori Shubhokkhon
Heat about 2 tbsp mustard oil in a kadai and fry 8-10 kolai daler bori with 1/2 tsp hing powder until golden, then remove and keep aside. In the same oil, add 1 bay leaf, 1 dried red chilli, and 1 tsp mixed spice seeds (cumin, coriander, fennel, mustard, onion seed, carom, fenugreek, coriander) and let them crackle. Add 1/2 cup chopped brinjal and lightly fry, then remove and keep aside. Now add 1/2 cup each of chopped radish, carrot, beetroot, and sweet potato, and sauté for 3-4 minutes. Add 1 cup cauliflower florets, 1/2 cup pumpkin, and 1/2 cup green peas, and stir well until all vegetables are coated in the oil. In a bowl, mix 1 tbsp ginger paste, 1/2 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tsp cumin powder, 1 tsp coriander powder, 2 slit green chillies (optional), salt to taste, sugar to taste, and 2 tbsp water to make a slurry. Add this to the vegetables and sauté until the raw smell disappears. Pour about 2 cups warm water (or enough to partially cover the vegetables), cover, and cook on medium heat for 10 minutes. When the vegetables are nearly tender, add 1 cup chopped spinach and the fried brinjal, and cook for a few more minutes. Gently crush a few of the fried boris and add them along with the remaining whole ones, letting the jhol simmer for 2-3 minutes so they absorb the flavours. Turn off the heat, garnish with chopped fresh coriander leaves, and drizzle 1 tsp ghee on top. Serve hot with steamed Atap rice (Basmati or Govindobhog) for a classic Bengali winter meal.
My Food Story is a collection of stories and recipes that celebrate India’s traditional plant-based ingredients sourced from local biodiversity. You can see these recipes on our interactive dashboard (https://www.cseindia.org/page/myfoodstory).
Indrani Bhattacharya is a self-employed professional based in Goa