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After my marriage about 25 years ago, I moved to my in-laws' house at Sujanpur in Himachal Pradesh’s Hamirpur district. There was a shahtoot (mulberry) tree in the courtyard. Every morning during spring, its flowers and leaves would fall and carpet the ground, and I had to clear off that courtyard. One day, my mother-in-law saw the heap of leaves that I had collected and told me that she would prepare a snack for me from them. I wondered how something from the ground could become a tasty snack. But she swiftly gathered the leaves and flowers and began cooking. Soon, she served me a snack that was both delicious and comforting. Perhaps it was her love and affection that made it special.
From that day on, we have prepared this snack from the shahtoot tree every spring. Now my mother-in-law has aged. But whenever our family sits together to enjoy this treat, I recollect those early days of my marriage, feeling the warmth and love that welcomed me into this home.
‘तूताँ दे पतेड’ (Tootan De Pated)
Tender leaves and unripe fruits of mulberry: 200 g
Besan (Chickpea flour): 2 cups
Turmeric: 1/2 tbs
Ajwain (Carom seeds): 1/4 tbs
Coriander powder: 1/2 tbs
Saunf (Fennel powder): 1/2 tbs
Salt to taste
Water as needed
Oil for frying
Turmeric leaves for wrapping
For tempering
Cooking oil: 3 tbs
Mustard seeds: 1tbs
White sesame seeds:1tbs
Asafoetida: 1/4 tbs
Curry leaves: 10
Green chillies: 3 (Split length wise)
In a bowl add besan, finely chopped shahtoot leaves and fruits, coriander powder, fennel powder, ajwain, red chilli powder, turmeric and salt to taste then gradually add water to make thick dough. Make rolls of dough, wrap them in turmeric leaves. Steam the rolls in a steamer or a pan placing a wire mesh for about 15 minutes on high flame. After cooling to room temperature cut these into slices using knife. Heat oil in a pan, add sesame seeds, mustard seeds, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies. Add sliced pated (पतेड) and saute for 2 minutes. Serve them hot with garlic chutney and a cup of tea.
Manjari V Mahajan is a teacher from Himachal Pradesh