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Nestled amid the towering sal trees of Sukna, just 10 kilometres from Siliguri, the gateway to the Northeast, lie the wooden staff quarters of West Bengal’s forest department. These simple yet charming houses, some over 50 years old, are a testament to a way of life that is slowly fading.
Sukna, a picturesque town in West Bengal’s Darjeeling district, is best known for its forests and the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The famous toy train winds its way daily to the hill town, offering passengers a glimpse into the region’s serene beauty. Visitors staying at the historic Sukna forest bungalow, once graced by Jawaharlal Nehru and Indira Gandhi, often catch sight of the train.
Yet, beyond these attractions, it is the Sukna forest colony — home to the department’s staff — that evokes a deep sense of nostalgia. A walk through the colony reveals a tranquil life, marked by wooden houses adorned with potted plants and the occasional sight of a dozing cat or a friendly dog.
Assistant Wildlife Warden Santu Das, who resides in one of these quarters, noted that many of the homes date back to the 1950s and 1960s, with some possibly even older. The preference for wooden structures was largely due to the abundance of timber in the region, making construction easier and more cost-effective compared to other materials.
“Wooden quarters blend seamlessly with the natural landscape,” said Das. “Sal and teak were commonly used in the plains, while dhupi (Japanese cedar) was favoured in the Darjeeling hills.”
Janardan Chowdhury, a zoo supervisor at Bengal Safari in Siliguri, reminisced about his time in these wooden quarters. “In the past, transporting cement and other building materials to remote forested areas was difficult due to poor roads. Wood, being locally available, was the obvious choice.”
Chowdhury recalled living in a forest quarter in Kunjanagar, Alipurduar district. “When I sought renovations, I had to verify its age. I discovered it was built around 1956.”
For many forest staff, these wooden quarters offer a practical advantage. Surendra Rava, a forest guard posted in the Sulkapara range of Jalpaiguri district, lived in a wooden house in Kathambari forest for 14 years. “They are comfortable in the summer,” he said. “Government repairs and regular painting help maintain them, while tin sheds offer protection from heavy monsoon rains.”
Despite their resilience, these structures are slowly giving way to modern construction. Many homes, originally built on wooden stilts to prevent waterlogging and protect against wildlife, now rest on concrete foundations. The transition is most visible in Sulkapara, where the once-wooden forest rest house has been entirely rebuilt in concrete.
Range Officer Babu Das of Nilpara range, located near Jaldapara National Park, noted that the Nilpara forest bungalow, dating back to 1864, remains intact, having last been repaired in 2014. Some staff quarters in the area might even trace their origins to the colonial period.
Forest Ranger Ashesh Paul of Diana range in Jalpaiguri acknowledged the challenges of maintaining these wooden structures. “Despite modern primers and paints, wood becomes brittle over time,” he explained. “To ensure durability, many wooden stilts have been replaced with concrete or brick. The long monsoon season and constant exposure to moisture accelerate decay.”
Conservation efforts also influence the shift away from wood, Paul further noted.
Northern Bengal has suffered forest loss due to development and tea plantations. Today, avoiding deforestation is a priority, so wood is no longer a preferred material for new constructions.
While wooden quarters remain a defining feature of North Bengal’s forest landscape, their numbers are dwindling. The southern parts of the state, Paul pointed out, have few such houses. “The sal trees in south Bengal are not as mature as those in the north, where they have a girth of at least three metres and yield high-quality timber.”
At Sukna, forest guard Vinod Chettri, a resident since 2000, spoke about the quarters’ significance. “Both permanent and casual staff are accommodated here. Most of us work in fire control, forest nurseries and soil conservation.”
Despite the changes, a visit to these quarters evokes a sense of timelessness. Posing for a photograph at a wooden house in Sulkapara, I felt momentarily transported to another era — one of simplicity, rustic charm and a deep connection with nature. But with each passing year, the question lingers: How much longer will these wooden relics withstand the tide of modernity?
