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The worsening condition of Varkala Cliff, the largest geo-heritage site of Kerala, is now in public focus after the National Green Tribunal (NGT) urgently sought a status report from the Geological Survey of India (GSI) and other concerned authorities.
The cliff, previously renowned for its breathtaking views of Varkala Beach near state capital Thiruvananthapauram, is now at risk of severe destruction.
Warning signs mark the scenic pathways leading to the cliff, a stark contrast to their former charm. Due to various factors related to climate change and human activity, the Arabian Sea, which is usually calm and known for its deep blue colour, has become increasingly turbulent now.
In addition, unregulated tourism infrastructure development on top of the cliff has almost completely jeopardised it, resulting in a tragic loss of the natural beauty that once defined this area.
Large-scale port constructions have caused significant coastal erosion, leading to an almost complete decline in the famous tourist beaches of Kovalam and Vizhinjam, also in Thiruvananthapuram district.
Consequently, many visitors have shifted their focus to Varkala, which is also famous as the location where social reformer Sri Narayana Guru founded an organisation to promote his inclusive religious philosophy.
Varkala is the only beach in Kerala—typically known for its flat shoreline—boasting a long cliff majestically overlooking the sea.
Online travel forums and vlogs frequently showcase Varkala’s cliff and beach as a ‘mini-Goa’, highlighting its unpolluted and relatively undisturbed environment.
According to GSI, the Varkala Cliff is at least 5.3 million years old. The organisation designated the site as India’s 27th National Geological Monument in 2014.
The International Journal of Geoheritage and Parks published a 2022 paper noting that the cliffs reveal the entire Mio-Pliocene sequence of the Warkalli Formation. In geological terms, the Miocene Epoch extends from about 23 to 5.3 million years ago, followed by the Pliocene, which ranges from 5.3 to 2.6 million years ago.
Experts confirm that the cliffs’ crevices, fissures, ledges, and terraces host plants not found in nearby forests, scrublands, or grasslands. These ‘microhabitats’, with their optimal humidity and temperature, contain just enough soil to support the microbes necessary for plant growth.
A Bijukumar, professor and head of the Department of Aquatic Biology and Fisheries at the University of Kerala, told Down To Earth (DTE), “Laterite cliffs provide excellent habitats for certain herbs”.
Underwater reefs near the Varkala Cliff create rich habitats for fish. One can find exposed laterite rock formations along the shores of nearby villages and the west coast. Local fishermen often dive in to chisel mussels that attach to these rocks, and many fishing communities specialise in this practice.
However, Bijukumar emphasised that the cliffs of Varkala provide the greatest ecosystem service by harvesting water for the coast. “Areas close to these cliffs yield some of the highest-quality water,” he said. The sandstone and grit beneath act as aquifers, while the rigid laterite layer on top caps them, allowing water to flow as free-falling springs, research indicates.
Residents recall that one of the oldest visuals of the Varkala Cliff appears in the classic 1965 Malayalam film Chemmeen, which features a stunning cliff adorned with coconut trees. This film, a cultural icon in the region, showcases the natural beauty and serenity of the Varkala Cliff.
Those who grew up in the area remember that there were no permanent structures atop the cliff until the late 1990s. Initially, landowners created a pathway along the cliff by consolidating their holdings closer to the cliff face. In 2004, the government paved this path with stones, increasing the weight near the edges. Since then, resort owners have added concrete structures and interlocking tiles in certain areas.
C Jayakumar, who represents Papanasam in the Varkala municipality, told DTE, “Until about 1996, temporary thatched sheds would appear during the three-month tourist season. Gradually, these transformed into permanent structures built without municipality licenses. Despite repeated notices issued by the municipality, many owners secure stays that prevent any action against them.”
In December 2023, the Varkala municipality compiled a list of unauthorised constructions, identifying 69 restaurants and cafes located within 10 metres of the cliff edge, with one establishment just 1.5 metres away.
Varkala is located in Coastal Regulation Zone (CRZ) 3B, which restricts development to a distance of 200 metres from the High Tide Line. However, the beaches allow temporary tourism facilities like shacks and toilet blocks.
R Anil Kumar, Leader of the Opposition in the Varkala municipality, stated: “The notices have primarily targeted smaller cafes, many of which have temporary structures made of mild steel. However, some larger resorts, particularly on the south cliff, have evaded scrutiny despite clear violations. Under CRZ regulations, many of these structures lack the necessary permits, leading to significant losses in annual license fees for the municipality. Owners typically secure stays against the notices, which have been ongoing for years.”
In June this year, former Thiruvananthapuram District Collector Geromic George faced controversy for ordering the removal of a section of the cliff on the south side, near Papanasam Beach. This decision aimed to prevent landslides that could threaten the Bali Mandapam, where thousands gather annually to perform rituals for their deceased family members. As the District Disaster Management Authority chairperson, he issued a government order for this action but later stated that he was unaware of the cliff’s geo-heritage status.
Landslides could happen as a result of the cliff’s makeup. Experts believe that Varkala’s geological formation is unstable. At the top of the cliff is a strong layer of laterite extending 3 to 4 metres; however, beneath it lies much softer sandstone and carbonaceous clay, which struggle to support the weight of the laterite above.
When rainwater or wastewater seeps through cracks in the laterite layer, it reaches these softer layers, potentially leading to cliff collapses.
Meanwhile, waste management has also become a significant concern. An anonymous restaurant owner told DTE that many eateries atop the cliff lack proper waste management systems. Concealed pipes pump out wastewater to the cliff face, unintentionally contributing to erosion.
For many Varkala residents, tourism is a key component of the local economy. However, environmentalists emphasise the need to balance people’s livelihoods with cliff conservation. They warn that failing to achieve this balance could lead to a crisis.
The National Centre for Earth Science Studies (NCESS) and the National Centre for Coastal Research (NCCR) in Chennai conducted a joint stability study in response to concerns raised about Varkala Cliff’s future.
The study was initiated by the Vision Varkala Infrastructure Development Corporation Ltd (VVIDC), a Kerala government enterprise focussing on infrastructure development. The report is anticipated in a few months.
Experts have suggested ways to enhance cliff stability. V Nandakumar, Group Head of Crustal Dynamics at the NCESS, stated, “Such cliff-like soil formations near the sea will always be unstable. Even if waves hit far away, hydraulic pressure impacts the base of the cliff. Strong engineering interventions are necessary to stabilise the bottom portion.”
During a recent session, the bench of NGT Chairperson Justice Prakash Shrivastava, Judicial Member Justice Arun Kumar Tyagi, and Expert Member A Senthil Vel noted extensive unauthorised construction along the cliff, including resorts, restaurants, parking lots, and a helipad.
“Such developments violate the site’s heritage status and threaten its structural integrity. The construction activities have particularly damaged the crucial top laterite layer of the cliff, exposing the vulnerable sandstone beneath to accelerated weathering processes,” the bench said.
Following the NGT intervention, the state government has ordered an additional disaster risk reduction study of the cliff. However, experts highlight a significant concern regarding the lack of coordination among various government departments, including tourism, GSI, Vivid, and the Kerala State Disaster Management Authority.
Thiruvananthapuram-based environmental activist Thomas Lawrance, one of the litigants before the tribunal, pointed out, “We convinced the tribunal that the cliff is a vital aquifer and natural water harvesting system for coastal communities. Its microhabitat hosts unique biodiversity and supports underwater reefs essential for local fishing communities. Unauthorised construction and modifications are disrupting these vital ecosystem services. Moreover, destroying natural drainage patterns and vegetation cover has made the cliff prone to erosion and landslips, especially during intense monsoon periods.”
Implementing a proper drainage system and reducing the weight on top of the cliff by regulating traffic and preventing illegal construction could help mitigate this issue, according to V Ambili, GSI deputy director.