A rare killer disease, Japanese encephalitis, has been annually and invariably breaking out in eastern Uttar Pradesh, India. This year, so far, 3,952 people have been affected. 914 are dead. It transpired at a Down To Earth editorial meeting on September 5, 2005, that such outbreaks are legion in this region: they have been happening for the last 27 years. Questions flew. What do people do? What action does the administration take? For the last 27 years? What's the procedure? Why here, every year? Storylines began to emerge. Among other possibilities, there came to light a prevention programme undertaken in affected areas, on paper only, indicating the state of public health initiative in Uttar Pradesh. Can nonchalant non-performance be the best way for a state administration to tackle disease? What was the future scenario? Vaccines. vibha varshney left immediately afterwards for Gorakhpur, along with photographer surya sen