What a day at the farmers’ market taught me about food sovereignty, cultural inclusion & decentralisation

It was March 2010 when I first visited a farmers’ market — a farmers’ hotel, to be precise — in Namakkal district, Tamil Nadu. While rural haats, bazaars and weekly markets have always existed in the villages and streets of rural and urban India, a dedicated space for farmers or a farmers' hotel was a new idea back then. 

Of course, many such ideas are thriving today, such as self-help group (SHG)-run canteens that grow, produce and prepare local millet recipes. Farmers’ canteens, urban kitchens preparing local recipes and similar community spaces are now popular in cities like Delhi, Bengaluru and Mumbai.

Seed to table

The farmers’ market in Namakkal was a shared space promoting local cultures and foods — fresh vegetables, fruits, flowers, herbs and spices procured directly from farmers, with no intermediaries. The presence of middlemen has long plagued agrarian societies, exacerbating rural distress. 

There were Indigenous processed foods like herbal laddoos with therapeutic and pain-relieving properties mixed with jaggery and black pepper, as well as delicacies and savouries such as local namkeen, banana cake and biscuits. One stall displayed rare barks, leaves and tree stems sourced from the picturesque Kolli Hills.

The concept fascinated me at the time — a dedicated space run by and for farmers, selling regional, seasonal produce and promoting the “garden-to-table” or “seed-to-table” principles.

Last year, I visited a farmers' market in Ithaca, New York. The Ithaca Farmers’ Market is a dedicated pavilion where farmers sell their produce, crafts, arts and other local specialities by the pristine waters of Lake Cayuga. It is a bustling community space teeming with economic and social activity. Farmers’ markets as a concept are believed to have first flourished in the United States in the 1600s, with early examples in Pennsylvania and Boston.

A salad bowl

During my visit in September 2024, I discovered a variety of greens at the Ithaca farmers’ market. Fresh rosemary, thyme and basil infused the air with their aromas, while flowers, fruits and herbal and locally crafted produce dotted the stalls. Farm-fresh apples and pears sat in large baskets alongside turnips, beets and radishes, adding to the vibrancy of the public space.

I was surprised to find an Indian variety of karela (bitter gourd) and even tulsi (holy basil) plants. There were also wild berries, mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes, artisanal wine, honey and cheese from local farms. Amongst all this chlorophyll and colour, I met artisans selling handmade jewellery, pottery, earthenware and wooden crafts.

Two stalls particularly caught my attention — one selling scrumptious hot samosas and the other displaying beautiful bouquets and garlands of the quintessential marigold flowers. Thanks to food migration, globalisation and cultural appreciation, samosas have become a beloved snack worldwide. The hot, fried pastry with its spiced filling is especially appealing in colder climates. 

Meanwhile, I was overwhelmed with nostalgia upon discovering that marigolds are also popular in the United States and are widely cultivated. Bouquets of bright yellow orange and red gem marigolds greeted visitors at the stall named “The Marigold Gardens.” Alongside them were other seasonal flowers, including zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, roses and hydrangeas.

A place to reflect

The meditative and calming experience of walking through the farmers’ market led me to reflect. Over the next few weeks — since the Ithaca market opens on Saturdays and Sundays — I began contemplating the significance of these community spaces in the economy and society.

Firstly, a visit to a farmers’ market is markedly different from shopping at a supermarket. A supermarket is an automated, mechanised space with a certain homogeneity, despite the variety of products on offer. Prices are fixed and there is no room for negotiation or conversation.

In contrast, a farmers’ market offers a reprieve from this mechanical shopping experience. The produce here carries cultural stories. Farmers grow, procure, sell, conserve and preserve. 

For instance, I met farmers growing African wine kettle gourds and pumpkins who explained how these were among the first domesticated crops. This interaction reminded me of the popular Tuma crafts from central India. I found a global resonance here, as American artisans were also carving beautiful artefacts, musical instruments and lamps from gourds. 

There was no urgency or rush; one could take time to explore and appreciate the produce, a refreshing experience for someone who had just recently migrated to faraway lands. Conversations with farmers at such markets are educational, enriching one’s awareness and knowledge about food.

Secondly, farmers’ markets promote the principles of food and seed sovereignty, essential for sustaining local food systems. Here, farmers exercise their right to decide what to grow, produce and sell, encouraging sustainable and responsible production and consumption, as outlined in United Nations-mandated Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 12. 

For instance, marigold farmers plant these seasonal flowers for Halloween decorations. Interestingly, marigold garlands sold out during Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations, demonstrating the globalisation of cultures and aligning with the “salad bowl” theory — where different cultures assimilate while retaining their identities. Farmers’ markets uphold Indigenous cultures, ethnicities and identities, thereby strengthening cultural inclusivity.

Thirdly, with their diverse selection of locally grown fruits, herbs, vegetables and flowers, farmers’ markets highlight the importance of dietary diversity. Nutritionists emphasise the need to consume a variety of fruits and vegetables to maximise vitamin and micronutrient intake. 

Farmers’ markets, offering fresh soups, juices, lemonades, desserts and gluten-free biscuits, reflect evolving food choices, shifting diets and contemporary food movements. However, affordability remains a challenge. Food security hinges on three pillars — availability, accessibility and affordability. Not everyone can afford fresh produce, which is often expensive, highlighting the issue of food deserts.

Fourthly, farmers’ markets support small farmers and local livelihoods, which are vital for preserving biodiversity. Many small-scale farmers in developing countries use such markets as platforms to sell their produce at fair prices, avoiding reliance on intermediaries and exclusion by large landowners. Likewise, small businesses promoting regional arts and crafts find avenues to sustain their enterprises while securing their livelihoods.

Fifthly, these markets often embrace circular economy principles — reduce, reuse, recycle — which contribute to ecological harmony. Waste is minimised, as visitors are encouraged to bring their own bags. Moreover, any waste generated from fresh produce is biodegradable, aligning with SDG 13 (climate action).

The world is one family

Most importantly, farmers' markets keep meaningful conversations about agroecology alive. Discussions on farming, agriculture and human rights take place in these spaces. Independent artists find platforms for creative expression, making these markets truly democratic and decentralised.

As these markets gain global momentum, the “glocalisation of recipes” — beyond concerns of cultural appropriation — can be embraced. For instance, educating people about millet recipes, kiwicha or triticale can help integrate farming communities worldwide, fostering mobility and solidarity. This embodies the universal philosophy of Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam — the world is one family.

Swasti Pachauri is an academic and a public policy professional

Views expressed are the author’s own and don’t necessarily reflect those of Down To Earth