Future of Taste: In a climate-risked world, eating right is as much about nutrition as it is about the environment, people

Earth is crumbling under the pressures of the human civilisation and as we hurtle towards the ‘age of man’ at the cost of natural ecosystems, we must be mindful at every step to limit our impact on the environment. This includes the food we eat. 

Once upon a time when climate discourse was still a niche, magazines and television channels would be replete with ideas on how to have a diet that is healthy for our body. That has changed since it became common knowledge that our food systems are extremely polluting – around 11 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions in 2018 originated from the food sector. They may also not be hardy enough to feed the expanding population in a warming world, as we have seen with repeated crop failures and damage during extreme weather events that are only growing more intense and frequent.

Now, we need to eat right for Earth too. And in a step towards this goal, Delhi-based think tank Centre for Science and Environment (CSE) has unveiled its latest contribution to the culinary and environmental discourse with the release of ‘The Future of Taste’, a captivating addition to its 'First Food' series.

Aimed at intertwining the complex web of climate change, food production and dietary habits, this book offers over 100 unique recipes sourced from India's rich local biodiversity. The culinary creations showcased in the book are envisioned as a source of solace for a planet grappling with the devastating effects of climate change.

Among other things, the book recommends opting for crops that are both nutritive and compatible with the local environment. The Future of Taste also recommends measures such as promoting multiple cropping to minimise risk; improving soil health by using non-chemical alternatives to fertilisers and pesticides; and encouraging low-input, cost-effective agriculture.

During the official launch event in New Delhi on March 12, 2024, Sunita Narain, the director-general of CSE, emphasised the book's role in addressing the pressing question of how agriculture and food production should adapt in a climate-risked world. "If we need to grow food that is good for us, we need to ensure the chemicalisation & industrialisation is stopped. The culinary-cultural diversity of India is intrinsically linked with the biological diversity in the country," she added.

We know that extreme weather events are breaking the back of India’s farmers, said Narain. "Farmers need risk-mitigation and we also need to reduce the emissions from the food systems."

Narain remarked, “The Future of Taste” and the broader 'First Food' series provide answers by bringing to light the vibrancy, essence and joy of biodiverse foods that are not only nutritious but also environmentally sustainable.

The book was released by a distinguished group of culinary experts, including Jatin Mallick, chef and co-owner of Tres Restaurant, New Delhi; Manish Mehrotra, culinary director at Indian Accent, The Lodhi, New Delhi; Manjit S Gill, former corporate chef of ITC Hotels and founder-president of the Indian Federation of Culinary Associations; and Rajiv Malhotra, corporate chef at Habitat World, India Habitat Centre, New Delhi.

Vibha Varshney, the mastermind behind CSE’s First Food series, underscored the wealth of knowledge present within local Indian communities. She noted that these communities have long been acquainted with ingredients such as millets, even before they gained widespread popularity. The book synthesises this indigenous wisdom, presenting over 100 'non-mainstream' recipes derived from a variety of local sources, including weeds, tree-borne foods, seeds with extended shelf life, plants with short life-cycles and overlooked parts of cultivated plants.

The book sheds light on the significant environmental impact of food production, revealing that approximately 11 per cent of the global greenhouse gas emissions in 2018 originated from the food sector. Narain highlighted the existence of two distinct agricultural paradigms – an intensive industrial model dominating factory farms and a subsistence-level approach practiced by smallholder farmers in developing nations. 

She cautioned against perpetuating the luxury-emission based model of food production, especially when the survival of farmers worldwide is jeopardised by climate change.

‘The Future of Taste’ advocates for a transformative approach to agriculture and food production. It emphasises the need to choose crops that are both nutritious and well-suited to local environments. Narain suggested that in regions with water scarcity, farmers should prioritise water-prudent crops like millets, calling for supportive government policies to promote their cultivation. The book also recommends embracing multiple cropping to reduce risks, enhancing soil health through non-chemical alternatives to fertilisers and pesticides, and promoting low-input, cost-effective agriculture.  

Narain underscored the vital role of consumers in influencing farming practices. She asserts that changing dietary habits will signal to farmers the need to cultivate food that is both nutritious and climate-resilient. As "The Future of Taste" unfolds, it beckons readers to embrace a culinary journey that not only tantalises the taste buds but also charts a course toward a more sustainable and resilient future. 

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